FANGS FOR THE MEMORIESIt was a dark and somewhat ominous afternoon when I took Singaporean photographer Jimmy Lam around the bowels of downtown Manila. He was here to do research and take shots of one of Manila's most ubiquitous sights: street people. It's part of series that he is doing on street dwellers ALL over Asia. Naturally, I took him to the riverside area of San Nicolas directly across Intramuros, a place I remembered to be chock full of the "sleeping-in-trees-and-cooking-dinner-in-an-selecta-can" crowd. But when I got there, I was rather shocked to see the place being renovated into a park and promenade. Nevertheless, energies are never destroyed, only transferred. So there were still a few stragglers who refused to move and managed to live amidst all the construction. All was going rather normally with the conversations we struck with the people we met until...
I met this man.
He was part of a larger group that was catching a nap right by the tugboats near Manila Bay. A rather affable fellow; he was well-spoken, intelligent, and didn't smell like a street person. He also acted very dignified and was dressed rather well for Philippine street dweller standards (i.e, he was lounging in long pants, shoes, and a button down shirt, as opposed to walking about shirtless with oversized basketball pants pointing fingers toward an open mouth). He also had a fantastic smile.
And that's when I noticed he had fangs. Yes. Fangs. I asked him to pull his upper lip and yes, they were real as real can be. Sticking out from the front of his teeth, they grew right out of his gums. He said his mother, while pregnant with him, made "lihi sa pusa". Unfortunately, due to his soft-spoken Tagalog, I couldn't hear him well and still can't figure out whether the direct translation of his words meant "she had a fondness for cats" or "she had a fondness for eating cats" when she was pregnant. Either way, it was too bizaare to believe.
Until I asked him where he was from. "Siquijor". Ah. Ok. Of course. Silly of me not to realize that off the bat.
Then when I asked him what his name was and he replied "Carlos". I couldn't deal anymore. I had to leave. Too freaky for my blood. And I'm already freaky.
Jimmy Lam hard at work. He gave twenty pesos to every person he met. God bless his soul for objectifying them and compensating them for doing so. It was a really neat arrangement for both parties.
My parting shot for the day. Too bad there isn't much detail in the photo. There were flies all around his feet and his home which is the umbrella next to him. And if this photo doesn't scream out: "The Philippines has become a total train wreck so let's all just stop bitching at one another, get our act together and pull our ass out of this ghastly mess were in", then I don't know what does.
The Living Room will be previewing "Soft Lighting", an exhibition/installation by British collaborative artists Jackson Webb on December 10, 2005 at 8:00PM onwards. Log on to The Living Room for more details.

While I'm still hot on the topic regarding my love-hate relationship with SM and the cultural insensitivity of the Sy family (I name them point blank here because SM is still a family run entity without a board of directors to keep them in check), allow me to post these two photos. The top photo is a 1957 shot of the original Pines Hotel located at the top of Session Road. The bottom shot is the exact same spot today. In fairness, the hotel burned back in the 1980's and was not razed by the Sys. But nevertheless, I still cannot forgive them for not respecting the original spirit of the area. SM Baguio altered the character of this quiet mountain town beyond repair by building a gargantuan, energy sucking, commercial wasteland on the very peak of a town that was originally built for only 50,000 people. Some even blame SM for the city's string of bad luck and for it's meningoccocemia outbreak because of the strain that mall has put on the city's resources. It's all very nice inside for sure, but sadly, the garbage it spits out has to go somewhere. And believe me, it's not going down the mountain. And ignorance is no excuse, look how successful Greenbelt and Serendra have been in mixing new urbanism and commerce.
I've recently learned from Baguio friends that the mall is not doing well and it warms the cockles of my heart. I will even be so bold as to curse it so that it may close. Baguio's tourism industry will never recover while that behemoth looms over it (or at least until they do a major, MAJOR renovation).
Thank you Time Magazine, Manila Times and kriyayoga.com for the links.
Now I'm not sure whether I should be afraid or excited, but at the very edge of Pasay City on Manila Bay, Henry Sy's gargantuan Mall of Asia is on it's final stages of construction. Rising up on land reclaimed from the sea, this gargantuan temple to consumerism boasts of a 20 hectare footprint and 381,000 feet of commercial space. Undoubtedly, the biggest in the land and arguably the biggest in Asia as it's name suggests. But aside from the bothersome issues of instilling first-world consumer habits on a third world society, inappropriate and garish architecture, and negative environmental impact (ie. garbage and pollution management, CO2 emissions from air conditioning systems and the utter lack of trees in the plan), what really makes me think twice about this place is the huge globe/sculpture right at the entrance driveway of the mall. Although China and the United States and Africa are well represented, I couldn't find the Philippines on Henry Sy's map. Bizaare. It really makes one wonder whether he really cares about the society he earns his money from. Don't forget, it was his SM Mall of Baguio, with it's ugly boxy frame and oppressive nature, that locals blame for the decline of their downtown and the ultimate demise of Baguio as a tourist destination.
THESE PIPES ARE SMOKIN'!
It's the next best thing to time travel in the City of Manila. Come listen to the 18th century come alive as the San Agustin Museum holds it's 7th San Agustin International Music Festival starting today, November 22, 23 and 24. This three-day musical event will feature the hottest in local and international sacred and classical musicians as the church's organ celebrates it's 190th year. Featured artists for this year’s edition of the music festival are Spanish organist Jose Luis Echechipia, the multi-awarded Mandaluyong Children’s Choir, and noted Filipino vocal and instrumental soloists.
The Barcelona-based musician opens the Festival on Nov. 22, as he plays the 18th century works by Heredia, Cabezon, Aranxo, Sola specially composed for the 18th-century Baroque church organ. He will also perform works by Handel with Reynato Resurrecion Jr., principal oboist of the Philippine Philharmonic Orchestra. The multiawarded UST singers under the direction of Prof. Fidel Calalang perform in the second part of the concert with their rendition of works by Rutter, Biebel, Laurisden, Stroope, Weimer, Filipino composer Ryan Cayabyab and two Negro Spirituals by Hogan. On November 23, Echechipia and Resurreccion return to render a different set of classical compositions specially arranged for the organ and the oboe. For the second part, the internationally-acclaimed Philippine Children’s Choir from Mandaluyong, directed by Sebastian Trinidad, premieres sacred works by Filipino composer Alejandro Consolacion. The three-day festival draws to a close on November 24, with a performance at the organ by Echechipia, followed by the Ateneo College Glee Club and the MSO Chamber Orchestra conducted by Prof. Malou Hermo performing John Rutter’s “Magnificat” in celebration of the forthcoming Yuletide season. Featured soloist is Filipino soprano Katrina Saporsantos. All shows start promptly at eight pm.
Tickets are available at the gates of the museum at P500, P300 and P100. For more information, call 527 4060 527 4061 or 526 6794. Thank you manalang.com for the photo and to Malaya and the Manila Times for the details.
These guys are definitely going to make somebody a lot of money. With their cool, infectious grooves that are a mix of Brazilian samba, Indian ragas, electronica, and spoken word in French, English, Filipino, and Portuguese, there's definitely something that everyone can bite into. But the real center of it all - aside from the charming novelty of their nine-year old percussionist prodigy - is Nyko Maca herself. She is part poet, part capoeira teacher, and part Philippine showbiz glam. Add onto it the brilliance of her sensible lyrics and some Shirley Bassey moxy, and you've got an art band that's definitely on the verge of a take-off. Definitely one of the most interesting acts I've seen in a while and I'm a totally jaded bastard. Catch them now before the crowds get too big. Text 0917 5342816 for their next gig and make sure to see them and DJ Superstar Caliph8 at the opening night of my new art space, The Living Room on December 10 at 9:00PM.
Nyko Maca consists of Malek Lopez on keyboards and mixer, Rick Sanchez on Classical Guitar, DJ Madz Abubakar on the laptop, Jose and Jaz Dufourt on percussions, and naturally, Nyko Maca.
AND1 MORE THING...
First it was Cathy Freeman, and now the AND1 Mixtape Basketball Team to visit the Philippines. Quite a bit of athelete interaction for a man who has little or no interest in sports whatsoever. Nevertheless, as people without the celebrity factor thrown in, Cathy was a sweetie and the AND1 team was quite an affable bunch. Actually, most of the team were genuinely interested in our history and were rather inquisitive and attentive for people who might otherwise be thought of as mere "jocks". Half-Man Half-Amazing, the tall chap with the cap partly hidden behind Professor, the shorter caucasian fellow to my left, was even a teacher of special education (just like my spouse) for nine years before turning to basketball. To paraphrase Ms. Melanie Marquez, "Never judge a person because they are not a book." Besides, even though I have the attention span of a newborn cat when it comes to sports, I do however give my props out to AND1 and their mission to promote international relations, social development, and well, fashion.
AND1 Mixtape team will be playing at the Araneta Coliseum this Sunday November 20. Thank you to Arnold Gamboa for the Melanie link.
Or at least till the next typhoon blows them down.
Last August, I wrote a post about the current urban renewal projects happening on the Pasay side of Roxas Boulevard in downtown Manila. And although I reported that the street pavement patterns were promising (In brick toned swirly designs ala Copacabana in Rio de Janeiro) and haughtily taunted Manila City Hall that the Pasay side just might eclipse the Malate-Ermita side of Roxas Boulevard in terms of architectural beauty - I shall now eat my words with a side of humble pie. The new lamps are finally up and they are, um...hideous? surreal? aspirational? I still can't find the words to describe it. All I know is that I can't use the words "pretty" or "tasteful". They make the Malate-Ermita lamps look positively sublime in contrast. Sigh. The jeepney-fication of Manila goes on. I guess that isn't a bad thing though. I'd rather have tacky than decayed any day.
Allow me this shameless plug as they are neighbors. And although I have never met them, I truly believe in supporting fellow artists and dancers within the downtown Malate area - so here I go.
THE MASTER CLASS
What good is sitting alone in your room? Come make money off your voice in musical theater. Come November 19 and November 20, Sunday, DWUTOPIA will be holding an advanced musical theater workshop on weekends to be taught by Sweet Plantado of the CompanY, the Philippines premier vocal ensemble. So call 5256810 or 0916-2967627, fill up a form, register, and prepare a song of your choice to sing on that day. And call quick as there are only 8 slots available at the bargain price of Php7,200.00 for 3 months worth of classes. A must for those of you out there looking to make that next step in their musical theater career. And believe me, there are musical theater careers available in Philippines no doubt. Aside from producing flourishing theatre institutions like New Voice Company, Trumpets, Repertory Philippines and Lea Salonga, the Philippines is perhaps the only country where you don't have to be gay to adore show tunes. Broadway music is opera for the Philippine middle class.
DWUTOPIA (Dancing Wounded Commune) is a dance arts place located on two blocks away my new art space, The Living Room in North Syquia. They are on the fourth floor of the stunning 1930's art deco Michel Apartments on A. Mabini Street near the Manila Zoo. Call them if you need to rent space for rehearsals, small performances, do yoga, or whatever.
Oh my god. Would you believe the audacity of this woman? She emailed me back with an even bigger shocker.
Carlos,
Everyone is entitled to his opinion, we live in a free country after all! Do you have contact numbers for a tour guide that doesn't inject his into his program? Thank You, B***********
(The letter is printed as is. I think she meant to add "opinions" after the word "his" in the second sentence.)Betty,You are simply incredible. First you insult the script I've written as being prejudiced, then call me anti-American, then now come back to ask for the contacts of OTHER TOUR guides? Hello? Do you see something wrong here? If you really were not interested in learning ALL THE ISSUES surrounding Philippine history, both the good and the bad, why did you even bother joining the ayala museum class? It seems you already know all you want to know. But since I am a nice guy - not really - I will give you the names of my personal favorites in order of my preference anyway.
http://celdrantours.blogspot.com/2005_07_01_celdrantours_archive.html But no matter who you call, the facts will never change: The United States (note I said U.S. - as in the government - and not Americans as in the people) destroyed Intramuros and DID NOT rebuild it. The United States killed almost half a million people in order to take the Philippines over in the early 20th century and the United States was not the saviour of the Philippines because The Philippines never asked to be saved in the first place. Carlos
The Tour Guy who does these tours as a vocation and as an extension of his art. I am NOT a travel agency.